ADROVER, JACOBS, STUART, DE LA RENTA, HERRERA, DKNY

+ Marc Jacobs' signature show was on point for the season, all ruffles and pretty, gentle colors, perfect little sundresses and a very relaxed silhouette that reminds of late 80s L.A. - a slouchy pant, a looser shirt, shorts with blazers. He keeps broadening his audience for his main line, keeping his hipsters happy with the Marc line. Style.com mentioned that it is reminiscent of his work at Perry Ellis, before Jacobs became Mr. Fashion Superstar, which makes me wonder when he's going to resurrect his infamous grunge collection that got him canned from Ellis in the first place.

+ Miguel Adrover returns to the runway! He must have been superexcited, judging from the volume of looks that he showed. It could only have been described as American preppy goes to Africa; there were lots of oxford shirts and blazers mixed in with some inventive capes and jackets, with draping and intricate ribboning embellishing here and there. It, the use of models of all different ethnicities and ages, and the deeper colors must have been great for the eye, since all the springtime pretty must look a little monotonous after awhile.

+ Carolina Herrera continued in her lady Hitchcock vein, with perfect attenuated silhouette in brighter Mediterranean colors, mixed with a sporty touch here and there, not to mention a little touch of what I like to call Zac Posen constructionism, especially with the collars of some of the dresses. Those who were huge fans of her heralded fall show should enjoy this season; there are still the ribbons and bows, but every now and then a tougher, younger edge pokes through.

+ Oscar de la Renta's world is all socialites, dinner, dancing and red carpets, which is generally who he dresses. This clientele will be treated to Audrey Hepburnesque dresses and some truly marvelous gowns, including one in a shocking plum that was atypical for a season lightly but firmly dominated by gentle palettes of spring colors.

+ DKNY was all very swishy and resortlike. Taking a looser silhouette as the guiding light, Karan delivered trademark ease with relaxed trenchcoats, dropped waist dresses, and trenches. There were loose, easy dresses in a relatively restrained palette of grey and khaki, punched up with purples and yellows the color of Peeps marshmallow candy.

+ Jill Stuart: there was plenty of cute for your L.A. starlet, and plenty of vintage-inspired touches. But to be honest, I don't remember much about the show or the photos. What does that mean? Jill Stuart and BCBG are sort of labels that are always very wearable and probably are meant to sell well, but always seems a little disposable. I'm always puzzled to see them have runway shows but it's just the same stuff in their stores...

All these shows can be seen at style.com and mbfwnyc.com.

More random observations:

+ Shorts are coming back!
+ Bright canary yellow is turning out to be the accent color of choice, so snap up those Christian Louboutin flats soon.
+ The flapper dress gets many modern interpretations
+ The little white dress is not going away
+ Ruffles, ruffles everywhere, so girly girls should be plenty happy

Posted by Kat in Fashion Weeks
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