Monday , December 20, 2004

Winter Fashion: Practical vs. Chic

There's an amusingly lengthy article in today's WWD about the challenges and travails of winter style, i.e. stylishness vs. comfort from the cold. There was discussion, of course, about fur, the ascendance of the fur vest as an accessory, coats and a reference to Ali Macgraw in Love Story (of course!) Naturally, I perked up with the stuff about shoes:

As is the case with the cyclical nature of fashion, there are, of course, other contenders to the crown — the first being the Native American beaded suede and fur boot called the mukluk. The look recently got a big boost after being photographed on style icon Kate Moss. “It was insanity with the mukluks,” says Kirna Zabęte co-owner Sarah Easley, who owns a pair herself. “They arrived at the store on a Wednesday, and we sold out over the weekend with no advertising or editorial.”

Both Scoop and Intermix have been doing brisk business with Michael Kors’ shearling boots, and Scoop’s Greenfield reported being sold out of the Marc by Marc Jacobs $180 “moonboots” in September. Though less visible, Malo also did lunar-inspired boots lined in shearling, which are the personal choice of Eva Lorenzotti, founder of the Vivre catalogue, and what Lori Hirshleifer, buyer for Hirshleifer’s at the Americana Manhasset, will be wearing as well. Earnest Sewn’s Eleanor Lembo went completely authentic, picking up a pair of Sorel ski boots. Along with her mukluks, Kirna Zabęte’s Easley will be wearing her favorite Frye boots. Helen Schifter has discovered the stacked crepe-soled boot from Hogan and Tod’s. And West Village boutique Elizabeth Charles nearly sold out of the long-haired Regina aprčs-ski boots.

However, some maintain that Aspen is a long way from the A train, and ne’er the twain shall meet. “I think it’s ridiculous if it’s not on the slopes or somewhere near,” says ultrachic handbag designer Devi Kroell of the hirsute boots. “I wear them in Gstaad, but never in New York.” She opts for a pair of bespoke leather riding-style boots.

But big, bohemian and functional is not for everyone. “I will literally wear the nice shoes, knowing they’re going to get ruined,” says Zani Gugelmann. “I’m not the person who wears the tennis shoes and switches when they get to a party.” Ditto Marjorie Raein, who sniffs, “I don’t care for winter footwear. I’m always wearing no pantyhose and sort of delicate shoes that are never appropriate.” But, she adds with a laugh, “I’m probably the person who is wiped out in the ice patch.”

(Good Lord, I'd hate to be quoted as sniffing about anything in an article!)

Posted by Kat in Fashion Theory
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