Stop the Presses! I FOUND MY SUMMER SHOE!

It's called "love at first sight," and while I rarely believe in it for human beings, I totally believe in it for fashion.

Keep Company Joie de Vivre slip-on shoes, $50, from Tobi. Cruelty- and sweatshop-free, too! We've talked up Keep a million times before; I think they are geniuses. I love how they combine the sportiness of a slip-on shoe with the old-school classicism of toile de Jouy print. So charming!

Accessories: A.Che

Here's my dilemma these days: I need a proper day bag. One that I can drag to school and stuff with papers and books and scripts (and maybe an external hard drive or two), but also one that won't embarrass me when I'm in a meeting and trying to get people to believe that they can trust me with a lot of money to make something for them. Ideally, this bag can go with me downtown when I meet up with friends and do my friend things with them, often involving drinking alcohol and standing in rooms listening or watching people do odd and somewhat crazy things. And you know, it has to be kind of cool and awesome and all that. How can one little bag do so much? Really, what bag exists that can do all that? There are a few, and they are legendary. But I'm putting a new candidate in the ring: the Raina handbag from A.Che, a new line based out of California. It's elegant but roomy, with just a tinge of bohemian to it, and is luxurious but discreetly so -- just a beautiful bag that should have pride of place in a closet for a good, long time.

A.Che's bags have a classicism in their proportions and materials, but designer Amanda Che adds elements like natural woods, knotting and weaving to keep things from getting too staid. The results are beautifully crafted bags that are unexpectedly versatile and would be perfect for the most elegant, refined hippie ever -- you can imagine them being toted to some sleek office during the day but also hanging off the forearm of some pretty young thing at an art event later in the evening and then leaning against the back of the booth at some bar in the late, late hours. Amanda was super-kind enough to answer a few questions about her line and work; predicting the future is folly in the fashion world, but I'd keep an eye on this line.

How did you get started in fashion? How did this particular line get started?
AC: I grew up in fashion; my parents have a lingerie and swimwear manufacturing company that I've been working in since 13 learning all the angles of the business. I went to school at FIDM, where I learned some skills to add to my experience and started building the foundation of the company right after I graduated.

What inspires you and your design process? How do you go about getting inspiration?
AC: When I design, I love to travel for inspiration. Being exposed to such a vast variety of cultures, colors, architecture, scenery, and materials is what really gets my creative juices flowing! I also read many fashion publications and attend as many fashion shows and trade-shows worldwide to stay on top of trends.

Where can we find/get your line?
AC: The line is still really fresh and new to the market, but are being sold on my website www.a-che.com, and the following stores: Greta's in Beverly Hills CA, LaTik Boutique in Santa Monica CA, Rich Hippie in Dallas TX.

What's coming up in the future for your line?
AC: My next launch will be for Fall 2008! I'm extremely excited to be adding some brilliant colors and many more styles to the original collection! I'll be participating in a lot of fashion events this years and products will be featured in issues of ELLE and LUCKY very soon! :)

What are you listening to lately?
AC: Music wise? My new playlist has The Shins, Coldplay, Daughtry, The Beatles, Iio, Amy Winehouse, The Fray and Flyleaf :P

Gryson for Target! Subversive for Target! Jesus Christ!

Wowza, Target's having a big news day. We knew about accessories designer Gryson doing a Target collabo awhile back, but the images are officially out and I have to say, the bags do look like they'd be part of her main line. (I even like some of the designs better than the bags I've seen in her main line.) The biggest possible disappointment, of course, could be the materials. Some past designers haven't quite been able to grapple with the cheaper materials, but it looks like Gryson drew on vintage inspiration for her Target line, which could help here in that factor. I'm not fond of every piece, and one should always reserve judgment till they can actually hold and touch the goods, of course. But if you're in the market for a non-leather bag that's both elegant and practical, you could cruise these and possibly find something.

The big news for me, though, is that Subversive, they of the amazing, amazing jewelry and a CFDA/Vogue darling, is now part of the Target stable! Totally psyched, because while past accessories collections have been on the disappointing side in terms of that magical intersection of materials and design, the jewelry designer collections have been quite excellent. Well, there was only one -- Dominique Cohen -- but I found it to be of surprisingly good quality, where the design considered the nature of the materials while still retaining the designer's imprimatur. This thoughtfulness is reflected in a higher price point for the general Target customer, which may make some people balk. While Subversive's pieces for Target are definitely not as intricate as their thousands-dollars-selling main line, they still have that elegant, imaginative eclectic thing happening and yes, I'm personally excited for these. (Plus, they did a nogoodforme.com interview for us awhile back! So they automatically rock in our book!) Between Subversive and Gryson and Jovovich-Hawk coming up soon -- Target probably just completely pwned your wallets, dudes.

Anyway, peep pictures of bags and baubles below from Target.com. (More pics and official press releases available here.) Subversive will be available at Target from March 23rd to July 20th; Gryson will be available from April 6th to June 21st. Enjoy!

Subversive for Target:

Gryson for Target:

Accessories: Travel Carry-On Bags from 31 Corn Lane, LeSportsac, and Surface to Air

So if you know me in real life, you'll know that I'm been completely blathering and excited about my upcoming trip to Thailand and other Southeast Asian destinations this month. (Um, anyone know of cool fashion destinations in Phnom Penh?) This means opportunities to indulge in eating some of the world's best street food, perusing the best of emerging Thai fashion (current dominant inspirations: Marni, Chloe and Marc Jacobs), cruising the film industry opportunities, trying to figure out why Thai whiskey is so watery and hanging out with my crazy yet lovable family. But this also means: travel accessories! (I already have the packing bit down.) Travel accessories are some of my favorite things to buy, allowing me to indulge my fantasies of being a jet-setting, glamorously louche adventurer a la Lee Miller in her war photographer phase or Beryl Markham in her aviatrix phase or Martha Geller in her hard-boiled reporter phase. I love travel accessories, everything from luggage tags to toiletry cases to weird shrink-wrap plastic bags that you stuff your clothes in and roll up so that all the air shrinks out of them so you can pack more clothes. And I love carry-on bags. I'm really picky, however, because I can't stand anything impractical (it does have to traverse oceans, after all.) And I hate logos (tacky, ghastly, and will get your luggage stolen more often than not). So, to quote Natasha Khan, what's a girl to do?

This usually means, for me, the army-navy store, because they are rugged, handsome yet inexpensive and they earn looks of respect from equally rugged, handsome photojournalist types around the world. While deep down I know I'll be true to my affection for army-navy goods, I still like to fantasize about fancier, girlier things. I mean, who doesn't want to traipse around the world with this adorable bag from 31 Corn Lane slung on their shoulder?

Sure, it has horses and hearts on it, but with its neutral color palette and small pattern, it is much more subtle -- more whimsical than childish, if you will. Of course, a girl can never go wrong with LeSportsac, either. (Note: the last time I went to Thailand, LeSportsac was the number one most requested fashion-y item from my gaggle of female cousins. That, and various Maybelline and CoverGirl mascaras: apparently American mascara rocks.) For awhile they had this lovely silhouette pattern that reminded my of the Kara Walker exhibition this fall at the Whitney (but without the incendiary racial imagery, of course.) I missed the boat on that, but I do like this charming, arty Etch print weekender bag as well:

While those bags have a girlish charm, there's nothing more luxe than this Surface to Air aviator-style bag, available at the amazing Chicago boutique Hefjina. It has the tomboyish, ragamuffin appeal of the army-navy bags I am so fond of, but there is an elegance to the materials and proportions. This is for the part of my travel persona that checks into fancy hotels and drinks Scotch at the bar while glaring cynically into the middle distance. It is tough and sexy, but sadly, it's $514.

Portrait of the Jewelry Designer as a Young Lady

Not withstanding the fact that she is one of my best friends of all time, the incomparable Laura Garland is also an immensely talented artist, illustrator, designer-- let's just say jack of all trades for convenience's sake.

Laura has recently set up an online shop at Etsy, which can be found right here. Currently up for sale are her whimsical charm pendants (a veritable steal at $15), one of which you are free to ogle at left.

In coming days, silkscreened tote bags, back patches, t-shirts and prints will be available for purchase as well. Each handcrafted bauble comes free with a unique silkscreened card, and, as if that isn't enough, Laura is more than willing to do special orders: to quote the artist herself, "if you don't have an image but an idea, like a hamster sitting down to breakfast, just holler. We will get it all under control!"

Seems like a sweet deal to me- but then again, I get all these rad trinkets for free, being a VIP and all. However, not everyone gets to be so lucky as I am, so get yr pocketbooks out and start shopping!

July 15: Devi Kroell for Target

So, it's not new news that accessories designer Devi Kroell, she of the super-expensive rock 'n roll socialite handbags, is doing a collection for Target, to be released on July 15th. (It'll be a busy day for the superstore, what with the launch of its Libertine collection as well as offerings from luxury jewelry designer Dominique Cohen.) But the bag is starting to pop up in magazine editorials, and recently a feature in this month's Marie Claire on a Devi Kroell for Target handbag caught our eye. It's one of those "Shopping Deconstructed" features, which takes apart a fashion item and breaks down why it costs as much (or in this case, as little) as it does. I found it interesting, and though I don't have a scanner, I thought it'd be interesting to share the breakdown of how a handbag goes from $2,500+ to $34.99:

1. The handle is flat and fastened with a satin brass-finish rivet, while the original sports a round handle with a tube inside.
2. The zipper is nylon while the original is brass.
3. The vinyl "scales" are "debossed and dipped in metallic dye for a 3-d look" instead of being real python skin from Asia.
4. The satin brass-finish magnetic snaps aren't brass like the original.
5. The lining isn't silk, it's a synthetic poly-satin.
6. And the whole thing is machine-stitched, not hand-sewn.

At any rate, while I'll be avoiding Libertine for Target (it's a bit too Avril for me, although I've got a crush on the whale-print duffle bag and, being a horse rider, anything with a pony screenprinted on it), we'll definitely be checking out Devi Kroell.

Owls Are The New Horses

In terms of animal graphics in fashion, we've cycled through wolves, sparrows, horses and those mammals with antlers. Now owls are having their moment in the motif sun, popping up on t-shirts and dangling on necklaces and earrings. Owls in folklore have the privilege of being the symbol of wisdom and discernment, and in the wild they are fierce predators. But in fashion they take on an adorable quirkiness without delving too deep in pixie-girly territory. Sophie Albou will offer an owl-adorned handbag in the Paul & Joe for Target line (coming up soon in August) that will probably be the hot Ebay search of the collection, but if you want your owl fix now, you can check out the following pieces:

Tarina Tarantino's Lucite Owl Earrings:

Glass Owl necklace, available at fredflare.com:

And don't forget to learn more about owls at The Owl Pages, a compedium of knowledge owlish and wide.

Dirty Librarian Chains

Dirty Librarian Chains have been popping up in the credits of some of our favorite fashion magazines, but it's hard not to notice their amazingly layered necklaces and beautiful drop earrings on their own merits. Artist Susan Domelsmith uses vintage materials to make one-of-a-kind necklaces and earrings that manage the clever trick of being both rock 'n roll and elegant all at once, and her work has managed to gain the attention of DJ Ellen Allien, Princess Superstar, Kate Hudson and even legends like Debbie Harry. I love the Abstract necklace with the leaf and stone charms; it's Domelsmith's subtly quirky detail and beautiful mixing of metal and materials that really makes her work much more than the usual bling.

You can order Dirty Librarian Chains through Austin, TX boutique Factory People.

Manolo + Marie Antoinette

There is a nice little article about Manolo Blahnik in which he talks a little about designing shoes for Sofia Coppola's latest film, Marie Antoinette, soon to have its world premiere at Cannes.

The most recent of these is designing shoes for the sumptuous Marie-Antoinette - Sofia Coppola's latest film, which stars Kirsten Dunst and premieres at Cannes next week. "When the producers called, I dropped everything," he says. "When I was a boy, my mother read a Marie-Antoinette biography, and I have read Antonia Fraser's version. I can't wait to see it. They said 'make them sexy', but I wanted to do something very academic." He began by studying original 18th-century shoes in Paris and at the V&A Museum.

"I thought that we wouldn't even see the stupid shoes on her feet but, apparently, Kirsten Dunst goes shopping and there the shoes are… They tell me they are in a big shot."

You can take a look at the shoes through the full trailer, available for viewing here. They definitely look like confections, full of fancy and color. We are definitely looking forward to the release of Marie-Antoinette, if not for the ravishing costumes and sumptuous, melancholy cinematography, then for the absolutely cool soundtrack, which features not only the New Order song in the trailer, but the Cure, Aphex Twin, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Gang of Four, Bow Wow Wow, and the Strokes.

Frank Gehry Jewelry Collection for Tiffany

I was shopping around for Mother's Day presents when I took at a gander at the jewelry collection that famed architect Frank Gehry did for legendary luxury retailer Tiffany & Co. Like Gehry's architectural works, the jewelry echoes organic forms rendered in unusual materials, and on a smaller scale his shapes are sensual and elegant, especially the Fish collection of necklaces (as seen below). I love the use of black gold, woods and resins with the soft, sculptural shapes, and the effect is both subdued yet unusual -- the anti-bling, so to speak.

New from Queen Bee Creations

Here’s the thing about owning a bag from Queen Bee Creations: Nearly every time you step outside the house carrying said bag, at least one passerby will ask where you got it, and you’ll have to twirl the bag around in order to show off all the details to your admirer, and possibly—if you’re nice, which I am sometimes—let her know that she can fetch one for herself at BuyOlympia.com. I’ve owned my 45 rpm Hand Bag for almost five years, received about a thousand adoring comments on it, and developed such an attachment that when I recently spotted someone else carrying the same style and color, I felt tempted to hug her and demand that we become friends.

Out of resistance to succumbing to any compliment-whore instincts I might be harboring, I’ve held off on buying another Queen Bee item for the past few years. But now Queen Bee has come out with the new and very tempting Pluma Tote, a handmade vinyl bag featuring a grandiose, stitching-accented cutout of a bird’s wing. I want the small Pluma in “Peacock with Black Wing,” which is maybe less attention-grabbing than my record bag, but highly covetable nonetheless.

Lady Luck Rules OK

While we like luxurious jewelry just as much as anyone else, sometimes you just need something that's straight up fun. Which is where Lady Luck Rules OK comes in: started by then-fashion assistant Leona Baker a few years ago as a market stall in Portobello, Lady Luck makes music-inspired jewelry that is nothing but charming and a little wild, kind of like it was meant for a rock 'n roll cheerleader who skipped out on football games to hang out with the bad boys underneath the bleachers. (No, I'm not speaking from personal experience. Well, just a little.) We're particularly fond of their rainbow-hued charms and their riffs on famous rock iconography, like the Mother's Little Helper earrings. But really, any piece of Lady Luck has a blithe, East Village punk spirit that would make Debbie Harry proud.

Frozen Peas Accessories

Hot damn, we just found us a new crush. Not only does 25-year-old Alberta Poon sing and play bass for the fantastically spazzy/melodic Wet Confetti—she also handmakes cuter-than-cute wallets, pins, necklaces, and earrings through her Portland-based Frozen Peas Accessories. Each piece features a silk-screened graphic of some cuddly creature (owls, elephants, deer, dinosaurs, and so on), our faves being the hugging polar bear wallet and wooden heart-shaped bird earrings.

Wet Confetti, by the way, are currently working on a new record that’s co-produced by Gang of Four’s Dave Allen. For now, you can get their 2004 release This Is So Illegal (Do It Fast), which sounds like if Blonde Redhead made scrapy pop songs you can dance to (and that, of course, means we're totally into it).

Jewelry: 'Arty-Crafty' Charm

We like the whole handicraft thing for spring, especially in accessories, and so we hunted out a few jewelry items we particularly liked in this arty-crafty vibe. First up: the Juxtapose necklace from Day Lab, one of our favorite shopping sites. An online store started by Amy Shutt, Day Lab is extremely well-curated, featuring merchandise from independent artists and designers, and we suggest that you hit them up for quirky, unique gifts along with equally individualistic jewelry and accessories. The Juxtapose necklace, designed by Art School Dropout, is very Marni-like, and one-of-a-kind.

Next: Pink gerbera daisy lacquer earrings from Weekend Jewelry. I love the colors on this piece, and there is a real attention to detail, especially how the tips of the pedals are just the slightest bit of lavender. Simple and charming, although daffodil not included :-)

Jewelry: Virgins Saints & Angels

Let's just continue with Mexican-inspired things this week! Up next is the accessories line with one of the best names ever: Virgins Saints & Angels. Particularly known for their belt buckles, their ornate, folkloric designs feature a range of influences ranging from religious iconography to Frida Kahlo, and add a touch of Goth influence to things. Their belt buckles are famously intricate and extravagantly beautiful, but I'm particularly fond of their more subtle pieces, like their necklaces and the Archangel cuff.

+ Buy at Belle Gray
+ Buy at Gypsy Moon

Wickedly Charming: Bonnie and Clyde Earrings at Champion

I'm a bit of a jewelry savant: I think it's all very lovely and appreciate its artistry and chic, but I rarely wear any except for necklaces with personal significance and earrings, which I seem to collect in ever-quirkier droves. While I know nothing about gemstones, metals, history or what have you, I am beguiled by the lethal combination of charm and bite, and these Bonnie and Clyde earrings by Claire Terry, designer of the accessories line Madame Fancy Pants, have plenty of both in spades. (See the photo at right, taken from Champion's site.) Terry is based out of New Zealand and is stocked in boutiques in that fair part of the world, but she's only available online at Champion, a fantastic NZ-based international online art and craft store where you can pick up other fantastic things like a Blondie charm bracelet from Lady Luck Rules OK or a vintage record cover sketchbook from Dontcom. According to Champion's website, there's only one available of the Bonnie and Clyde earrings, so hop to it before I regret writing about these for this blog and order them myself.

Alexander McQueen's New Bag: The Novak

Any handbag connoisseur could rattle off a list of "it" bags like a tween reeling off the names of a boy band: Lariat, Speedy, Roxy, Mombasa, Stella, Birkin. (Sounds more like a multicultural WB girl gang cartoon, actually.) Now Alexander McQueen is ready to add his contribution of the field. He's recently designed the Novak, the centerpiece of a complete handbag range that should hit stores in fall 2005. Inspired by actress Kim Novak (she of Hitchcock's Vertigo fame), the Novak will be available in a range of sizes, colors and materials, and should start at around $1,100 and go up to $13,270, depending on size and material. And what does it look like? It's vaguely "Alien"-like, true to McQueen's aggressive, slightly savage aesthetic (though not as aggro as I would have thought), very structured and sharp - something not unlike what a very elegant lady pirate would carry. And I'm very sure that, come fall, more than one bag-crazed fashion addict will be hunting high and low for it.

Lions, Tigers and Bears: Ryan Green Bags

Lately I've been really into designs with animals, whether it be kittens on t-shirts or little birdies stenciled onto stilettos (I didn't do this, but I spotted a particularly rad-looking girl who did.) I'm not one to deconstruct the sociological implications of this craving; I'm sure it could mean anything like a longing for the carefree summer camp days of my animal-lovin' childhood, nostalgia for a childhood aesthetic that isn't based on anime, or the renewal of environmental awareness, etc. and etc. But I can tell you that I had that automatic "oooooh" that you get when you see something you just instantly like, like this pink slouchy bag from Ryan Green with horses heat-transfered onto them. There's other colors and designs if you'd prefer birds, rabbits or a moose. Roomy and playful, they're all nice antidotes to fancy grown-up bags for those days when you just want to be a kid again.

A Bathing Ape in Soho

Very nice article in NY Times about A Bathing Ape, the international cult Japanese brand that recently opened an outpost in New York. Famous for allowing customers to buy only one piece of A Bathing Ape at a time, such restrictions will be relaxed for the Soho store, which will be good news for trainer cultists who want to get their hands on BAPE's sneakers, hoodies and t-shirts. There are some nice quotes in the article, including one from designer Nigo that pretty much sums up how to build international hipster mystique: "'I really don't want a lot of people wearing my clothes,' he said." There was also mention of Nigo's diamond and platinum veneers (dude!), and a possible BAPE hotel. (Maybe you'll be allowed to spend only one night there.)

[ Many thanks to readers John and Ryan, for bring the piece to my attention in the middle of this mad holiday season! ]

Han Cholo Jewelry

Eagle-eyed observers who actually read those teeny credits and captions next to photographs in magazines are noticing a new name popping up often: the wittily-named Han Cholo. The LA-based jewelry designer's work has been showcased in the likes of Nylon and Bust lately, but it seemed to blow up first when Gwen Stefani wore the thick, chunky boombox necklace on the Superbowl show in 2003. The design du jour seems to be the thunderbird necklace, which walks the line between stadium rock and hip hop and adds some edge to the feminine sundresses that seem to dominate spring and summer. Every girl has an inner cholo, I guess. (Or just wishes she had one.)

LIKE LIVING INSIDE A HANDBAG

Those of you still addicted to the logo can now plaster your walls with them. Murakami did LV wallpaper, of course, but you can actually buy Gucci wallpaper to complete your bling lifestyle.

THE "IT" BAG WATCH

I like lists, lists of lists, lists of lists of lists...listing in general. With so much information going around, it's nice to let someone do the dirty work, no matter what. Read enough fashion lists, and you'll start to see what truly are the most coveted items for fall. (Sort of the meta "It" list, if you want to get all fancy-theoretical, which I'm not.) Which is why I'll read anything like New York Post's "It" list for fashion this autumn, which has some amusing facts about the hot purses, shoes and coats and their waiting times. I haven't really seen most of these yet on other lists, but so far the big contender for "It" purse this fall is Prada's classic structured crocodile purse, which has popped up on many radars already. It may not be such a bad idea to get in line now; by the time you get one, you'll have spent those months and months raising the nearly $6,000 that is the bag's purchase price.