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Tuesday , February 23, 2010
Another Imaginary Shopping Spree: Tess Giberson's Fall 2010 RTW Show
Many, many moons and nogoodforme redesigns ago, I babbled on and on about Tess Giberson's show in 2003 (!!), so you can imagine how stoked I was to see her return with her namesake line to the latest Fashion Week in New York. Taking a few years to have a baby and design for TSE has kind of toughed up Giberson, but she still has that serene, unforced quality to her work that I loved in the first place. I'd wear everything in this line: it's kind of a perfect symbiosis of my Helmut Lang and A Detacher side. It's as if Giberson added a homespun air to the minimalist/urban template or skinny leggings, cool jacket and simple shirt. I couldn't be more thrilled or lustful about these clothes, and I WANT EVERYTHING. (Kat)
Tags: fashion shows, Tess Giberson
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Saturday , July 12, 2008
Maximum Imaginary Shopping Spree: Laura Jane takes on Resort 2009
Resort collections rule. I always enjoy them heaps more than I do ready-to-wear because:
1) There are less looks in the collections, so you get less bored scrolling through seventy-freaking-eight pictures of Chanel in the style.com pop-up window.
2) They take themselves way less seriously, which they should, because fashion is not all that serious (and to anyone who thinks otherwise- you take yourself too seriously, dude!)
3) The clothes are always more casual and therefore look more like things I could wear in my boring broke-ass life.
4) There is not so much of an emphasis on cohesion and so the garments look less branded and/or cookie-cutter, which makes them highly more appealing to this particular anti-fashion-fashionista. Dressing solely haute just seems like cheating somehow; well, of course you're going to have to good style if you only ever wear expensive clothes made by the cool-kid designers! I doubt you'd look so fly if you had to dress yourself out of trash bins and Old Navy sale racks, you boring Lagerfeld death-drones!
Oops. I digressed. What I meant to say is, here are my picks from the Resort 2009 collections. Enjoy!
Figure 1: What Rich Laura would wear to... Grab Morning Coffee Fabulously
1. ADAM; 2. Stella McCartney; 3. Nina Ricci; 4. Marc Jacobs; 5. Doo.Ri
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Tags: Abaete, Balenciaga, Brian Reyes, Chris Benz, collections, Costume National, Diane von Furstenberg, Givenchy, Helmut Lang, Jason Wu, Jonathan Saunders, Michael Showalter, Resort 2009, Reyes, sangria, Sari Gueron, Stella McCartney, Temperley
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Monday , March 3, 2008
Paris Fashion Week, Fall 2008: The Last Gasp
Bloody hell, Paris was brilliant and why did I lose track of it so? How do fashion editors and writers do it without gouging their eyes out from overuse? I haven't a clue. (Being paid to do it must help, I think.) I liked the playful flourishes amidst the familial severity at Limi Feu (daughter of Yohji Yamamoto); the pretty chiffon frippery of Chloe (although I swear, sometimes I thought I was looking at a spring show, not autumn); a more poetic take on pretty at Nina Ricci; and just the sublime aura of Lanvin in general. There was lots to be puzzled by, of course. (Um, most of the pants in general this season. Trouser people, be ready to cry a little next fall, unless you like weird hips and crotches.) But there was a lot of be taken in by. Completely beautiful stuff.
(l-r: Antonio Berardi, Chloe)
(l-r: Hermes, John Galliano)
(l-r: Lanvin, Limi Feu)
(l-r: Louis Vuitton, Martin Grant)
(l-r: Nina Ricci, Ralph Rucci)
(l-r: Costume National, Givenchy)
(l-r: Haider Ackermann, Hussein Chalayan)
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by Kat in Fashion Weeks
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Wednesday , February 27, 2008
Paris Fashion Week, Fall 2008! Crap, I'm so behind in keeping up with all the Paris shows! Which is too bad because there has been some stunning work so far, Paris being the city of truly visionary design talent, where some designers really are auteurs and bizarre runway styling is just par for the course. If there's one designer who's got me, it's completely Rick Owens, and he turned in a superlative show this season. He took the couture experimentation of his spring show and brought it back to his usual post-apocalyptic tropes, and the result are feats of fantastic cut and construction by someone who was already was a master at those things. If you're at all a fan of jackets, Owens is your man. Balenciaga, of course, is always eagerly awaited; who doesn't want to see what emerging from the mind of Nicholas Ghesquiere? He always freaks people out: "I don't want to look like a scary sci-fi freak!" "That's so shiny!" "Who can walk in those?!" But take apart his collections piece by piece and there is often something wearable, even as it challenges the eye. In fact, so much of Paris is about challenging the eye, thinking about the foundations of clothes and their relationships to bodies -- and how this overarching project gets translated into actual product is why this city is the beating heart of fashion. There was so much else, of course -- seeing Comme des Garcons experiment with "trashiness," watching Galliano being so subdued at Dior -- but alas, pictures are better than words, no? (l-r: Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga) (l-r: Balmain, Comme Des Garcons) (l-r: Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier) (l-r: Jun Watanabe, Kris Van Assche) (l-r: Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens) (l-r: Tao, Undercover) (l-r: Veronique Branquinho, Viktor & Rolf) (l-r: Vivienne Westwood, Yohji Yamamoto)
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Friday , February 22, 2008
Milan Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Best of the Rest Look at pictures of the gold-"dipped" furs at Fendi (yes, people, real furs whose tips were gilded in real gold), I couldn't help but think about how high fashion is dealing with news of the upcoming recession. Often the attitude this season was "What recession?", what with an emphasis on luxury fabrics, couture-like detailing and, um, furs dipped in gold. I think it's evidence that high fashion is banking on the appetites of the newly mega-rich coming out of emerging markets like China, the Middle East and Russia -- as well as the mega-rich everywhere, who probably won't be affected right away by any economic downturns. (One look at this season's Gucci show demonstrates how the luxury house is banking on Russia to keep it afloat.) This is so interesting to me, especially in juxtaposition with the Lee Miller biography I'm reading now, where I'm at the part where the editors of Vogue (for whom Miller photographed for) knocked heads together and came up with ingenuous ways to make fabric rations, shorter haircuts and other forms of deprivation glamorous and beautiful. I'm not saying fashion has to embrace potato sacks and look depressing -- just noting that at some point it was able to deal with social realities in an imaginative, dashing way that doesn't seem to exist now. The visual evidence of the ever-widening gap between rich and poor makes me a little uneasy, even as I'm appreciating the surprising elegance of line and structure at Versace or the color and exuberance of Matthew Williamson's work for Pucci or the charm and delectable color palette at Marni. (l-r: Daks by Giles Deacon, Dolce & Gabbana) (l-r: 6267, Alessandro Dell'Acqua) (l-r: Roberto Cavalli, Dsquared) (l-r: Fendi, Gucci) (l-r: Iceberg, Luisa Beccaria) (l-r: Marni, Max Mara) (l-r: Pollini, Pucci) (l-r: Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace)
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Wednesday , February 20, 2008
Milan Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Favorite Looks So Far Milan, Milan, Milan: it's not as commercial as New York, not as theatrical as London, nor imaginative as Paris. So goes the common wisdom about Milan's Fashion Week. Milan: very much about a general bourgeois discretion and a sense of luxury, foregoing directionality and theatrics in favor of a certain attitude that recognizes fashion as not just entertainment or art or sartorial sex-substitute, but an investment. I used to bag on this attitude until I came to adopt it a bit myself, finding myself looking to spend my very hard-earned money on things that will last for more than a season. (But personally, I'll be damned if I ever find myself buying a skirt suit for the office. I'd rather throw myself on top of a burning pyre.) Sometimes Milan's muting of seasonal characteristics is a smart thing, and there is something for every customer ranging from the candy-color confections at Blumarine to the well-disciplined chic of Francesco Scognamiglio. But reducing Milan to a certain commercial attitude, of course, doesn't explain the almost severe purity and minimalism of Jil Sander (where Raf Simons just keeps getting better and better) or the sometimes divisive experimentation of Prada, whose show this season turned Miuccia Prada's usual take on bougie grandma chic into something subtly erotic and almost fetishistic. And with that, the pictures! (l-r: Alberta Ferretti, Blumarine) (l-r: Bottega Veneta, Burberry Prorsum) (l-r: Derercuny, D&G) (l-r: Emporio Armani, Etro) (l-r: Francesco Scognamiglio, Gianfranco Ferre) (l-r: Giorgio Armani, Jil Sander) (l-r: Missoni, Moschino Cheap & Chic) (l-r: Prada, especially those SHOES!, Pringle of Scotland)
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Sunday , February 17, 2008
London Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Leftovers! Just a few looks we enjoyed from the tail end of London's recent fashion week. Up next week: Milan! Then: Paris! Oh, the whirlwind of it all! (l-r: Allegra Hicks, Erdem) (l-r: Luella, Peter Jensen) (l-r: Rodnik, Vivienne Westwood Red Label) And finally, the most British of proper British, Margarel Howell, who I always like in a perversely quiet way:
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Thursday , February 14, 2008
London Fashion Week, Fall 2008: Gareth Pugh Says "I Cut You" Holy shit! It's raining Goth samurai robots over at Gareth Pugh! The whole thing is sinister, crazy, vicious, almost completely unwearable -- but kind of scarily awe-inspiring, in the same way that listening to Japanese noise can be. It's all about thanatos, kids. And what can I say? I'm kind of Goth-y so naturally I adored the whole thing, and one can't deny that Pugh has the incredible talent to even engineer the complexity of some of this construction. How deep can one mine this particular vein remains to be seen, but till we reach that deep, dark end, I'm kind of taken away by this totally fierce nutter: Seeing the Gareth Pugh pics made me a bit flabbergasted and unable to render coherent thought on some other shows. There was sophistication (Richard Nicoll), simple elegance (Nicole Farhi), utter chic (Roksanda Ilincic) and great squishy fun (Louise Gray). But dudes...Goth samurai robots. You just can't get that out of your mind so easily, you know? (above: Basso and Brooke) (above: Jens Laugesen) (above: Louise Gray) (above: Nicole Farhi) (above: Richard Nicoll) (above: Giles) Hey, weren't these girls on "In Living Color"? (above: House of Holland) (above: Todd Lynn) (above: Roksanda Ilincic)
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Wednesday , February 13, 2008
More London Fashion Week, Fall 2008: More Favorites! The rock don't stop in London! Two words: Christopher Kane. Could any show be more anticipated in London? One thing you must say about Mr. Kane and his sister/design partner: they don't rest on their laurels, this time playing with a drape-y silhouette, transparency and many, many pailettes. Not my thing, personally, and I do admit I missed the Versace gestures of the past, but I did love how sparkly it all looked without evoking Vegas showgirls or drag queens. (Not that there is anything wrong at all with those looks!) In the meanwhile, Marios Schwab delivered a definitive collection that served up a long, lengthy silhouette that definitely reminded me of the mid-90s. Below, more looks, most courtesy of the fabulous people at Coutorture.com: (l-r: Aquascutum, Ashley Isham) (above: Betty Jackson) (above: Duro Olowu) (above: Krystof Strozyna) (above: Marios Schwab) (above: Osman Yousefzada) (l-r: Paul Smith, Christopher Kane)
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Tuesday , February 12, 2008
London Fashion Week, Fall 2008: We Like These So Far Love, love, loving London! Have to say, many of the shows coming out of the city this season have been really superb; it's like they've taken a lot of the ideas from New York's fall collections (a loosening and 'melting' of previous seasons' volume) and dosed them with a shot of youthfulness and energy. Ann Sofie Back's collection still retained its deliberately skewed take on awkwardness, but added a degree of grace to it; Topshop Unique made me excited to resurrect my late-1990s wardrobe with its shearlings, sober blacks and flourishes of deconstruction; even Jaeger got in the game with some souped-up style and clothes that stretched waaaaaaay beyond their usual sensible older customer. But so far my biggest love has been reserved for Jean-Pierre Braganza, who showed a collection that would make an Alaia/Balenciaga/Mugler fan completely freak out with joy; it played with both volume and body-con and was incredibly creative, and it gave me instant 'want' virus. In fact, Balenciaga and other purveyors of a certain angular fierceness seems to be a huge influence on London so far; even Louise Goldin, already renowned for her flair with innovative knitwear, got in the futuristic/body-con game. Other things we've been noticing a lot: leggings in leather and satin (which we also saw a lot of in New York) and the emergence of the 'melting' silhouette's counter-narrative, a short, flared skirt that sits a bit higher near the waist. Also, jacket and coat lovers, you will find great ones for fall later this year. Anyway, onto the pictures, which have been scavenged everywhere from style.com to Yahoo: (l-r: Ana Sekularac, Ann Sofie Back) (l-r: Biba, Eley Kishimoto) (l-r: Emma Cook, Felder Felder) (l-r: Jaeger, Jasper Conran) (l-r: Jean Pierre Braganza, John Rochas) (l-r: Louise Goldin, Modernist) (l-r: Paul Costelloe, PPQ) (l-r: Sinha-Stanic, Topshop Unique)
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